El Nido

A maritime perspective

El Nido’s limestone karsts rise from the turquoise sea in a way that reshapes a visitor’s sense of scale. Rather than staring from a beachfront, rent a modest outrigger and glide between the spires at sunrise; the soft light paints the cliffs a muted gold, unveiling hidden grottoes that are invisible from shore. The waters here are a subtle tapestry of currents, making early mornings ideal for spotting schools of juvenile tuna that feed on plankton swarms. Bring a waterproof notebook: many locals use tide charts passed down through generations to anticipate when the best snorkelling windows open, a practice worth observing before you dive in.

Beyond the tourist trail

While the main town buzzes with eateries and souvenir stalls, a short tricycle ride east leads to the quiet village of Sitio Campomanes. Here, small family-run gardens grow pandan and coconut sap, and visitors can sit on rattan benches while locals demonstrate traditional weaving techniques. The experience is less about ticking a sight off a list and more about witnessing a rhythm of life that balances tourism with subsistence agriculture. Pack a reusable water bottle and a willingness to linger; the exchange often includes a shared bowl of kinilaw, a fresh fish ceviche, prepared on the spot.

When the rains reshape the scenery