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Craignure
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The ferry hub as a launchpad
Most visitors see Craignure simply as a stepping‑stone onto Mull, but the village’s layout rewards a slower pace. After disembarking, wander past the modest harbour walls to the old stone‑built inn where locals still gather for a dram of whisky. The short walk to the harbour’s edge offers an unexpectedly good view of the council‑owned Caledonian Maritime Museum’s tiny fleet of historic boats. From here, cycling routes fan out toward the rugged western coast, allowing travellers to bypass the busier southern towns and discover secluded coves before the sun sets over the Sound of Mull.
Local food beyond the tourist menu
While the ferry timetable dictates the rhythm of arrivals, the village’s small grocery co‑op and a family‑run deli provide a glimpse of everyday Mull life. Early mornings you can pick up freshly baked oatcakes and locally smoked salmon, which taste markedly different from the mass‑produced versions found in larger ports. In the evenings, the modest café often features a rotating selection of produce from nearby farms—think heirloom carrots and honey from a hive perched on a cliffside. Asking the proprietor for the day’s “catch of the loch” can lead to a plate of speckled trout seasoned with sea‑weed butter, a dish rarely highlighted in guidebooks.